Birthday Present

Barbara and Deb: Deb and I have been sooooo busy lately that we haven’t had even a minute for official blog-business talk amongst ourselves. The craziness of our lives lately has reflected in many ways: we’ve missed reading your blogs (sorry! we’ll be back), we’ve let a few things slide around our “house” here, and we never got around to talking about the next steps we want to take. Life is like that, huh?

Well, yesterday we finally had a chance to take stock and ask some questions about where we want to go next and how we want to do it.

So, first things first.

As you may have noticed, there are ads on our blog. If I remember correctly, we decided to include the ads because Blogher is the host and they’re such a big network and we thought it might a) help broaden our readership and b) maybe generate a bit of income toward some of the work a blog requires. But, as most “practical” decisions in our lives, that went out the window when we realized there was a little bit of cash in the kitty and that we might need to decide what to do with that cash: divvy it up, let it ride, go out for lunch, etc, etc…

It took us all of ten seconds of discussion to realize we could donate the money! Now, of course, Deb and I donate to many worthy causes in our respective lives, and proudly so, but we didn’t just want to make a random decision when it came to donating the Blogher ads revenue. This was a trickier conversation—we didn’t want to begin a complex discussion every year as to which charity would best deserve it because, of course, all of them deserve it (even if it is a modest amount, it’s the principle, right?).

Then Deb made what I think is a genius and lovely suggestion: what if we looked back over the year that we’ve had in our blogiverse and make our decision based on the wondrous and magical (and, frankly, miraculous) and unexpected direction that this blog has taken us and then give back to that particular world? And if we look back over our last year in terms of “organic” development, then it’s obvious that, without the blog, we would never have gone to Costa Rica (thanks again, Gift of Happiness!) and without the Gift of Happiness, we would never have discovered Pack for a Purpose, the charity that encourages travellers to bring gifts to the country they’re visiting.

And I made another lovely suggestion (if I do say so myself): what if we made our yearly donation in the week of our shared birthdays—which, as many of you know—is the end of this week?

In the years to come, we would like to go where the blog organically leads us and make donations based on that our experiences.

So there you have it: Pack for a Purpose has received a small donation from us this year—and we give that amount in honour of all of YOU. It can be a birthday present from all of us to all of us.

Our Costa Rica Gift Of Happiness: Open Letter To Costa Rica And Happy Videos

Deb and Barbara: As a sign-off to this blogging week and to our 8-day travel diary of our trip to Costa Rica, we want to take this chance to just say a few more words.

We said it many times during our visit, but we were honestly amazed at just how much effort was being put toward eco-sustainability by Costa Rica in general and the hotels we stayed at in particular: Arenal Springs Resort earning its 4-leaf status and El Silencio Lodge and Spa and The Harmony Hotel earning their 5-leaves. Costa Rica obviously prides itself on these efforts—and the efforts pay off in the abundant wildlife, epic scenery, and pristine beaches that adorn your magnificent country.

However—and this is a big however—please, please keep it up! It could be very easy to embrace eco-tourism as an economic boon, but then cater to the whims of the modern age by mowing down your beauty to make way for roads, hotels, condos, and gallerias. Please resist this common failing.

Because it is your wild and diverse eco-systems alongside your environmental triumphs that make your country so very appealing and unique to the very tourists you want to attract.

Believe us, we know it is and will be hard. We are pleading with our current Canadian government to understand and embrace this forward-thinking philosophy, but instead they try to convince us that tar sands are good and eco-consciousness is baaaaaad. We’re not good with absolutes, but we will say it here: they are wrong. And if they don’t realize that soon, they/we will keep destroying this fragile balance in our own beautiful and largely wild country.    

For Costa Rica, we hope endless dairy farms won’t replace your forest and jungle, that more medical problems will be solved by the healing secrets in your flora, that you will continue to enlighten and lead the world, that you will show us how it’s done. And continue to show us that it CAN be done.

On our trip, we met a journalist who told us that for new development in Costa Rica, the government often doesn’t spend the extra money necessary to insulate the overhead wires, which can then kill wildlife as a result. If your electrical wires are electrocuting the monkeys and sloths so characteristic of your wilds, then we hope you will make the short-term investment necessary to coat those wires that will protect those creatures and your long-term ecological growth (just like your efforts that saved the turtles). One of the ironic moments on our trip was watching the howler monkeys cavort in the trees just above a sign announcing a condo development. Of course, people need places to live and stay, but so do the native animals—and so far you seem to be serving both needs quite well. Don’t forget, you won’t need all those condos and hotels if you mess too much with the unique sites tourists come to see. And also, your people won’t be so happy (see the Happiness Index) if their pristine country is overrun (or run) by the superficial needs of outsiders.

We dearly hope you will continue to charm many many generations of indigenous, local, and international guests as you charmed us with your distinctive balance between nature and man. You humbled us already. We long to be humbled again and again and again by the courageous policies of your country and your heroic nature sentries. 

When tourists ask for “a view of the ocean”, what they really want in Costa Rica is to preserve “a view of the ocean”. A view of an ocean that is clean and pristine and untouched. That’s why we came. That’s why we will come back.

Yours very sincerely, Deb and Barbara

Videos!!!

This is from El Silencio Lodge and Spa where Andrey, the eco-concierge, took us on a tour of the grounds. We’re sampling organic herbs from their greenhouse garden.

This is from the 3-hour hike through the rainforest around El Silencio. Andrey showed us 3 waterfalls—this one being the largest: La Promesa Falls.

This is us during our visit with the Maleku tribe. We are discussing language with José, our gracious host.

Turtle Turtle

You can watch as many of these videos (or as few) as you like. The first 3 videos are short snippets (between 1 and 2.5 min long) of the turtles emerging from their sandy nest and trekking down to the sea. Notice how they need to rest along the way!

The last of these videos is the full journey from nest to sea and runs a cool 10+min. Reader’s choice.

You can still enter for your own Costa Rica Gift of Happiness here!


And a late PS: Please feel free to ask us any questions you might have about our experience. Now we might actually have some time to answer!

Our Costa Rica Gift Of Happiness: Day 6, Harmony Hotel And Horseback Riding

Deb: Never has a hotel been so aptly named. It truly reflects grounded peace, decadent service, and the cradling of our planet. We were awed when we walked through the door. The greeting, both human and earthly, was simple green elegance.

Colin: I burnt my feet. Why can’t I remember to put sunblock on the tops of my feet? WHY???

Barbara: Both El Silencio and The Harmony evoke this new ideal I’ve discovered of the “hotel experience”. It’s not just about sleeping comfortably and eating well (both of which we’ve done to an utmost degree here), but about embracing a true eco-living experience. At El Silencio, it was the 3-hour hike through the rainforest. Here it was the 3-hour horseback ride on the beach and through a nature reserve, spying birds, monkeys, more quati, and an armadillo. Not to mention the 3-hour walk along the beach first thing this morning, traveling across 8 kilometers of pristine sand and water at low-tide.

Deb: The Harmony offers a free “sustainability tour” and “garden tour” where the guests learn up-close how much they respect their environment and use/re-use every single amenity they possess. It not only encourages you to do the same, it makes you wish that every hotel offered a similar experience. Because the truth is, despite environmental consciousness, we are lacking for nothing here.

Barbara: We have outdoor showers off the back of our rooms—I know I said it before, but can I just emphasize again how utterly delicious it is to wash yourself clean in the warm fresh air, looking at lush greenery during the day (above the privacy fence), or at the stars at night.

Colin: I think I showered with one of you today.

Phil: It was me, Colin. They say everyone sounds great when they sing in the shower. Not true.

Barbara: Oh, and PS, the private gardens also have a hammock! Yup, there we were last night, Phil and I in our hammock calling across to Deb and Colin in their hammock, “Can you see Cassiopeia?! There’s the Big Dipper!”

Deb: And … the sexy factor? Through the roof!

Phil: After 3-hours of horseback riding, I have calluses where no man should have calluses.

Barbara: But we saw a sunset that rivals my best memories of sunsets. The pics are great—but they don’t quite capture the fire-orange and deep red that saturated the sky.

Deb: I had not been on a horse since I was ten (during my one year of lessons) and Colin has never been on a horse. Barb and Phil have done it many times! And yet, God bless my husband, there he was, out in front all on his own. His horse had plans for him and those plans included seducing him into the world of horseback riding. Even though at one point his horse lost his footing and Colin almost lost his lunch.

Colin: Only through my expert horsemanship and the fact that my soiled pants glued me to the saddle did I not fall to my certain death.

Barbara: All this to say, we had another awe-inspiring day filled with gentle adventure and utter beauty. I can’t sigh off without mentioning the food again—the food here is sublime. Fresh and complex, familiar and yet unusual, local, with a twist. The Harmony knows its way around a meal!

Deb and Barbara: Don't forget you can still enter to win your own Gift of Happiness here--the site is now over 100,000 strong! Tomorrow we have something very special coming up for you—stay tuned!!

So many of our meals have been authentic Costa Rican, but each place gives it its own twist.

To the left: the pool. To the right: our rooms.

Cowgirl Deb.

Our genial guide, Juan. 

Our Costa Rica Gift Of Happiness: Day 4, Arenal Springs Resort And The Maleku Tribe

Barbara: Today we had a most extraordinary experience. We were picked up at our hotel by José, a charming and dignified member of the Maleku tribe. He promptly drove us an hour from our hotel to a small enclave populated by his indigenous people.

As tourists being hosted by the Costa Rica Tourism Board, you can imagine that we expected a possibly slanted, “tourist-friendly” (by that I mean possibly cheesy or pandering to tourists) experience, but this was as authentic an experience as we have ever had in our extensive traveling lives. We actually now bow even deeper to our gracious hosts, the Costa Rica Tourism Board, who had the great ideal of sharing with us not just a “fun” adventure, but something truly spiritual and meaningful. Something—there’s no better word for it, even though I said it already—authentic.  

This Maleku tribe, 400-strong in this region, but populating Costa Rica in several areas and among 7 other indigenous tribes, lives in a small, re-naturalized area in Central Costa Rica. We were honoured to be welcomed by one of their chiefs, Rigoberto Lacayolipy, by our driver and host, José Moralos Martinez, and by his wife, Jenny Lacayo Elrzondo, and their young son and niece, Hanzel and Meilyn consecutively. Jose offered us Maleku-style hot chocolate—which is cocoa steeped in hot water, no sweeteners. It is completely different from anything we’re used to, and yet utterly delicious. Bitter and deep like coffee, but not as bitter and more complex. José told us that the young tribal members have rejected this ancestral beverage in favour of the over-sweetened and artificial drinks we find in every supermarket around the world. But they are trying to bring this traditional drink back. And I’m telling you, it deserves its hallowed place.

José’s wife, Jenny, then brought us yucca pancakes fried in salt and oil and drizzled with homemade honey, presented on handmade plates lined with banana leaves. Soooo delicious! José explained that the Maleku like their hot chocolate unsweetened while they eat a sweet treat with it. I will not soon forget this culinary delight!

While we enjoyed this treat, we were joined by a young Peace Corps volunteer, Biiftu Aba-Jebel (native to New York and one of the most beautiful, radiant young women we’ve ever met), who acted as our translator. José sat with us and we engaged in a lengthy, in-depth discussion of the Maleku and indigenous experience in Costa Rica, and how the tribes and the local governments are now trying to work together to increase the environmental responsibility that is so cherished by the Costa Ricans, balanced by the cultural retribution necessary to the native people. This was an intelligent, thoughtful and low-key sharing of a personal experience. We were awed and humbled by these amazing people. And by the courtesy of the Costa Rican people for sharing it with us.

Deb: This conversation was very much a give-and-take of the environmental responsibilities that our own North American countries lack (and/or take for granted). Environmental issues are so at the forefront of the Costa Rican thinking—and we were pretty embarrassed that our own country only scratches the surface in this regard, never mind taking a serious stance. At this point, we should remind you that Costa Rica is third in the WORLD for environmental responsibility.

After the snacks and discussion, Rigoberto, the tribal chief and José’s father-in-law, took us on a tour of the extensive gardens. He asked us as a group to decide who would take the ceremonial walking stick through the gardens. We all looked at each other, not wanting to jump at it because, after all, we’re all polite Canadians. Colin suggested that it might mean the most to me. Everyone agreed. I picked it up, thrilled to have the honour, daunted for a second by the weight of it, and then, humbled, I carried on. Proudly.

The garden is intermingled with the local rainforest, replete with every kind of healing herb and plant indigenous to this region: lemon verbena, ginger, oregano, anise, an anesthetic herb we don’t know the English name of, stevia, lemon grass, a bark that helps diabetes, cat’s claw, etc. He gave us a sample of each plant, encouraging us to taste it, smell it, feel it.

Near the end of our walk, he showed us a vine that cured his asthma. After years of suffering and trying every medicine available to no avail, he was told by doctors that he would have to live with asthma for the rest of his life. Then his son brought him this vine after finding it on a mountaintop. Rigoberto steeped the leaves to make a strong tea and drank the tea 3 times a day for 8 days. His asthma was cured. And this was 11 years ago. He offered this herbal remedy to fellow villagers who were also suffering from asthma. They asked him what payment was required. He said all he wanted was to know if the remedy worked for them. To date, 7 asthma sufferers have been cured.

During this walk, we were told there was a sloth in the vicinity, but sadly it was an elusive sloth. However, we did see the tracks of a small wild cat—and its abandoned kill of a wild bird right in the middle of our path. So our pursuit of the sloth falls under the category of Where’s Waldo, and we remain undaunted in our pursuit.

Barbara: After this amazing walk, we returned to the main hut and were offered a truly delicious meal of fresh-water fish steamed in banana (and other) leaves and several different root vegetables. Wow, just soooo delicious and satisfying. To quench our thirst, they gave us a sweet local iced lemonade that was to-die.

Colin: This day was lovely in its simplicity—the entire day. It was one culture learning about another culture. And being incredibly jealous that they’re better than us.

Phil: I had no real expectations of what the day was going to be like, and perhaps went in with my mind completely open as a result, and despite the tremendous language barrier throughout the one-hour plus drive, and the initial hour prior to Biiftu arriving, (and while I can decipher some basic Spanish, you have to know that the Maleku tribal dialect is completely different than Costa Rican Spanish) we were all able to communicate with each other as equals and as friends. Perhaps our leaders can learn something from this.

Deb and Barbara: For anyone interested in visiting the Maleku tribe, we encourage this experience for several reasons: it is an authentic experience, it’s fascinating, and it opens our eyes to other people’s way of living. If you want to study and investigate the area and local medicinal plants, the tribe will help you do this. As well, José tells us there are several other indigenous tribes who will welcome and inform you—you can contact the Costa Rica Tourism Board or local travel agencies. Or we suggest you cut out the middleman by contacting José’s community directly: José Morales Martinez email: jmjulio115@yahoo.com; or phone: 8731-4997.

Kisses and hugs to the children, Meilyn and Hanzel and Winky the dog, our sweet puppy companion.

As a farewell to us, Rigoberto said that they loved having us and were sad to see us go. We responded by saying that it was not only one of the great days of our trip, but one of the great days of our lives.

Driving to the Maleku reserve

The meeting hut

A young pup took a shine to Phil--left his doggy tattoo on Phil's shirt!

Beverage cups made from fruit husks.

Yucca pancakes! Mmmmm.

Sipping hot chocolate. Mmmm.

The venerable walking stick.

Rigoberto, tribal chief and "medicine man".

Tasting and smelling the beneficial herbs.

The cocoa pod.

Lunch. Mmmm.

Mmmm.

Winky, the 6-month old pup (and Phil's new best friend).

Meilyn and Hanzel

With Biiftu and José (in red shirt).

In the end, we decided to gift our 6 soccer balls and school supplies to the Maleku tribe. We found ourselves with a chance to not only give them to a community that need them, but to one with whom we had an amazing personal connection. It's still Packing For a Purpose. And we still support and encourage their organization and affiliates!

Our Costa Rica Gift Of Happiness: Day 3, Part Two

Deb and Barbara: This is our "wonky" day: we traveled from El Silencio to Arenal Springs Resort and Spa––and, yes, Deb took another Gravol against her better judgment. Okay, if only someone had told her that the winding road lasted for 3 miles and then straightened out for the rest of the trip, she might not have shamed herself. However, upon reflection, the combination gave us the best laughs of the trip thus far (see photos for proof).


PS Many profuse thanks to our genial hosts at El Silencio for a superb 5-star/leaf stay!!

En route between El Silencio and Arenal Springs, we stopped at an iguana reserve established by the owner of this restaurant to protect the majestic creatures (plus Deb needed to pee).

He says they call him "Papa Iguana".

The rust colouring is a mating call. He waggles that impressive chin to attract the ladies (rivalling Colin's gelatinous basket).

There were literally hundreds of iguanas in the trees (they eat leaves––not humans, although Deb was not entirely convinced of this truth, high on Gravol as she was.)

We thought Deb was fine at this point--although we should have suspected something was up as she wasn't talking.

Yup, there it is. (This moment brought to you by Gravol.)

We arrived at Arenal Springs in the afternoon––too late for further excursions. However, the hotel had other plans... bottle is empty now, display has reverted to a crumpled towel on the floor. Thanks, Arenal Springs Resort and Spa!

The view from our adjoining hotel rooms. Under all that cloud cover in the distance is one of the ten most active volcanoes in the world. Sitting on the porch here was warm and tranquil as we watched gorgeous birds flit by.

Checking out the grounds.

Although you can't tell from this picture, Deb has just unwittingly walked right into the pool, thinking it was a path to the sushi bar. Feet are soaked, but WARM, as the water is fed by thermal hot springs. 

More tomorrow after we come back from our hike and tribal ceremony! Can't wait!! Costa Rica is truly clean, safe, beautiful and diverse. A paradise. We're eating the salad and drinking the water. The drives have been breathtaking. The people friendly and helpful and kind. Woo-hoo!!